sábado, 1 de setembro de 2007

Noite do bacalhau e do vinho

Na última sexta-feira, a confraria da qual faço parte – humildemente intitulada Aprendizes do Paladar – realizou seu décimo encontro, registrando o feito de dois anos de degustações e harmonizações sem que qualquer dos dez integrantes não desse o ar da graça. Digo que isso é um feito porque seria plenamente compreensível um de nós desfalcar o grupo por conta de imprevistos e os tais “motivos de força maior”, especialmente em uma cidade confusa como São Paulo.

O fato é que tivemos mais uma noite de prazer e, como é a razão de ser do grupo, também de muito aprendizado. A proposta desta vez era degustar tintos portugueses e, para complicar um pouquinho mais, comparar o comportamento dos diferentes vinhos com bacalhau. Diga-se de passagem, que bacalhau! Muito simples, acompanhado de batatas, azeitonas e azeite, mas delicioso! Talvez delicioso exatamente pela simplicidade e delicadeza do prato.

A noite começou, como sempre, com espumante e, como o tema era Portugal, desta vez com um belo queijo Serra da Estrela para acompanhar. Passamos pelo delicioso polvo preparado pelo casal Baggiani, os anfitriões da noite, e por três brancos muito agradáveis, todos portugueses, que abriram nosso apetite e apuraram o paladar para o desafio principal da noite.

Taças na mesa e vinho servido – às cegas, é claro. Além de quatro tintos, o confrade Walter, provocador como sempre, colocou um branco para a compatibilização com bacalhau. Para mim, seria natural que este fosse o campeão e, os outros, meros coadjuvantes em um esforço hercúleo para conseguir os minutinhos de fama.

Felizmente eu estava enganado. O casal Baggiani, que nos recebeu maravilhosamente bem, acertou a mão na pedida. Ao contrário do que eu esperava, conseguimos harmonizar bem dois dos tintos servidos, sem qualquer interferência do alimento na bebida – e vice-versa –, como “metalização”, por exemplo, efeito que eu temia nesse encontro do bacalhau com o tinto português. Destaco aqui o Quinta do Perdigão Touriga Nacional 2001, para mim o melhor tinto na harmonização, importado pela Mistral. Muito equilibrado, com um curioso toque de hortelã no nariz e, na boca, taninos redondos, que não brigaram com o peixe e nem com o sal.

Mas nem tudo foi surpresa nessa noite. O campeão, na minha avaliação final – é bom dar um desconto, pois essa avaliação aconteceu 12 garrafas mais tarde – foi o branco intrometido do Walter, um Catena Alta Chardonnay, argentino, também importado pela Mistral. Aliás, um belo vinho branco barricado, bastante “amanteigado”, que casou maravilhosamente bem com o bacalhau.

Enfim, acredito que o décimo encontro da confraria Aprendizes do Paladar foi o que se propôs ser: uma noite de boa gastronomia, de muitos vinhos, de muitas surpresas e, como sempre, de muitas risadas. Continuemos assim!

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